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Military timepieces have captured the interests of watch collectors worldwide for their rich heritage built throughout great world wars as an indispensable tool for military personnel. When it comes to steadfast military performance, the French Navy has proven to be a force to be reckoned with, being among the largest and most powerful naval forces in the world. In an effort to create a military-grade timepiece fit for military professionals that could handle the any situation, YEMA designed the Navygraf diver series intended for to take on any physical task with ease.
We all are familiar with countless exceptional watches made by the Swiss and Japanese that are dominating the market. Nonetheless, the French also displayed excellence in the fine art of watchmaking with the creation of many beautifully decorated haute horlogerie pieces and complex movements. While YEMA may not be a name that the masses are entirely familiar with, it is a brand synonymous with the production of fine French-made timepieces and an incredibly rich heritage. Founded in 1948 by French watchmaker Henry Louis Belmont, YEMA has demonstrated remarkable mastery in watchmaking with the creative integration of innovative designs to their ever-dependable tool watches. Today they unveiled the YEMA Navygraf Slim CMM.20, limited to only 200 pcs, the classic Navygraf model with CMM.20 movement and subtle yet striking yellow highlights.
Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 - Ltd Ed 200pcs |
Drawing inspiration from 70s vintage Navygraf models, the YEMA Navygraf CMM.20 retains its distinctive case design seen throughout the Navygraf line up. The stainless steel case measures in with diameter of 39mm, a lug to lug distance of 46mm and an incredible thinness of 9.5mm. With these dimensions, the watch evokes an appealing retro character that sits extremely comfortable on most anyone's wrist. Finishing is immaculately executed to a high level of precision, with enhanced proportions that shows off the brushed finishes which is contrasted by polished chamfers throughout the case. The watch also features a sapphire insert which mimics old bakelite bezels for the vintage aesthetic. The black sapphire unidirectional diving bezel holds the watch together and gives it a subtle stylish aesthetic.
Protected by a double-dome sapphire crystal lies the ever familiar black dial of the classic YEMA Navygraf Heritage featured on the YEMA Navygraf CMM.20. The dial features raised steel indices in polished finish which elegantly match the polished facetted hour and minute steel hands, creating a beautiful metal reflection against the pure black dial under certain angles. Fit with iconic Navygraf sweep second hand alongside the Navygraf signature at the 12 in yellow, lack of a date window and simple minute rehaut, these elements come together to create a striking perfect dial symmetry that is ever so satisfying. Balanced with "300 meters" and "Micro-rotor" at the 6, this piece balances a clean minimal aesthetic with a spark. These elements not only provide an aesthetic advantage but also a functional aspect from increased legibility with it's simplicity.
Completely redesigned 30 bar slim case |
Adding on the legibility, the YEMA Navygraf CMM.20 boasts exceptional readability even in the dark with generously coated grade A Super-LumiNova lighting up the hands and markers emitting a bright blue glow. With a see through sapphire screwed down caseback, this piece is more than enough for everyday use with a water resistance of 300m.
After 2 years of optimisation, Yema has finally debuted the new In-House micro-rotor Caliber CMM.20 which is featured on this watch. It features self-winding with ball bearings rotor while beating at a higher 28800 bph or 4 Hertz with a 70h power reserve. Thus, this timepiece provides an accuracy of -3/+ seconds per day. YEMA's In-house Caliber relies on a new movement hand design to provide better resistance to shocks and vibrations. The 316 L Stainless Steel bracelet with a secure lock is equipped with a divers extension for comfortable wearing over a diving suit.
Minimalist & elegant aesthetics. Dive-ready. |
Not stopping there, the true ingenuity that allows for such a slim and high functioning watch is the state-of-the-art micro-rotor caliber that represents a significant evolution from the brand's previous reliance on Sellita/ETA movements or the YEMA2000 caliber. The CMM.20, developed with input from the renowned Olivier Mory and Patrick Augerau, is a testament to French horological craftsmanship, with its components produced either by YEMA in Morteau, France, or by local suppliers within a 72km radius. This movement features a tungsten micro-rotor on ball bearings, achieving a thinner profile which contributes to the watch's overall slimmed-down case design without compromising its dive watch capabilities.
A micro-rotor has to be fine-tuned and carefully crafted taking it's shape and aerodynamics into consideration in order for it to capture kinetic energy to power the watch. By minimising the space taken, the rotor is allowed to be moved back, remove a whole entire layer of the movement which makes it possible for a watch to be this slim. It cannot be said enough the ingenuity and the technology powering this horology piece.
Calibre Manufacture Morteau 20 |
Overall, the YEMA Navygraf Slim CMM.20 – Ltd Ed 200 pcs - Ref. 22.24.66.SN.L6 reveals an interesting take on a 70s-inspired timepiece with an attractive modern design recalling past references. YEMA has been producing some really outstanding watches from their iconic Superman to various stunning collaboration models, however this latest vintage sports watch addition to the Navygraf series has impressed us once again, proving time and time again how amazing the French are at making such phenomenal timepieces.
Maker | Yema |
Movement | Micro-Rotor Caliber Manufacture Morteau 20 |
Dial | Lacquered dark gray |
Luminous | Super-LumiNova C3 Grade A |
Case | Vertical brushed 316L stainless steel with polished bevel |
Bezel | Unidirectional diving bezel with sapphire insert white markers (0 to 60 graduation) |
Crown type | Screw-down crown with embossed YEMA logo |
Lug width | 20mm |
Crystal material | 2.00 mm double domed sapphire crystal |
Strap | 316L stainless steel Scales Slim bracelet in brushed finish |
Water resistance | 300m |
Dimensions | 39mm in diameter, 47mm lugs to lugs, 10mm thick |
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