Gnomon’s pick: The top 5 articles for 2024

As 2024 draws to a close in the blink of an eye, we find ourselves reflecting on the incredible experiences of the past year. This year, like every other, has been filled with awe-inspiring discoveries as we’ve explored an array of extraordinary timepieces. From classic icons to hidden gems, each watch has offered something unique in terms of design, craftsmanship, and innovation. Throughout it all, we’ve shared our insights, experiences, and stories with you on the Gnomon website — whether it’s been through in-depth reviews, thought-provoking articles, or glimpses into the fascinating world of horology. From visiting watchmakers to diving into the rich histories behind some of the industry’s most renowned brands, our goal has always been to share the passion and excitement we feel for the world of watches.

As we close out 2024, we wanted to take a moment to highlight the articles that resonated the most with our readers. These pieces not only captured the essence of our journey through horology this year, but also sparked lively discussions and deepened our connection with the watch community. Whether it was a deep dive into a groundbreaking timepiece or an exploration of the art and tradition behind watchmaking, these articles stood out as some of the most memorable of 2024. I’m excited to share the Top 5 articles from the year — the ones that truly encapsulate the heart of what we do at Gnomon, and the ones that we believe have left a lasting impact on our audience.



1. The Story of the 2024’s Habuka Deluxe Release – June 20, 2024

One of the most memorable experiences we had in 2024 was visiting Hitori's assembly site, a truly invaluable opportunity that offered a rare glimpse into the intricate, behind-the-scenes artistry of watchmaking. Hitori, an indie watch brand just shy of three years old, has quickly established a clear identity by creating timepieces inspired by Japanese culture. Their approach brought a refreshing perspective to what could have otherwise been a daunting experience, especially considering the current landscape of rising watch prices. During our visit, our team flew all the way to Hitori’s assembly site to witness the meticulous creation of the Habuka Deluxe model, and it was fascinating to see the entire process unfold.

Watchmaker attaching the hands of Habuka Deluxe Aoki Lake

The day began with a tour of Hitori’s assembly site, where our team was introduced to the layout, departments, and the skilled watchmakers behind the scenes. Our team then observed the assembly process, starting with the Seiko NH35 calibre movements. Watchmakers carefully positioned the movement, checked the uncased timepieces, and secured the rotor before assembling the beautifully finished mid-case. Our team witnessed the precise placement of the Habuka dials and polished hands — a step requiring exceptional skill. After the final assembly, the watches underwent a thorough inspection, including the placement of the crystal, a double-check of components, and an airbrush cleaning. The completed watches were then tested for water pressure to ensure durability.

A tray of Habuka’s Hakone Greens dials

What made the experience truly insightful was the opportunity to engage with the watchmakers, who shared their expertise and the intricacies of Hitori’s craftsmanship. This visit highlighted Hitori's commitment to combining traditional Japanese artistry with modern watchmaking precision. With a small, artisanal team entrusted with the assembly, every watch is a masterpiece of quality and attention to detail. The experience left us with a deep sense of appreciation for the craftsmanship and dedication behind every Hitori timepiece, making it an unforgettable highlight of our year.



2. The Return of An Emblematic French Watchmaker | Part I – June 20, 2024

When discussing the highlights of the year, we can't help but mention our beloved partners, Yema—the French watchmaker renowned for crafting iconic tool watches. Last year, our team member Samuel shared the brand’s rich history and legacy on Gnomon’s website. While Yema may be considered a newer entrant compared to pioneering brands like Breguet and Cartier, it has nonetheless built a remarkable heritage. The legendary Superman dive watch from the 1960s remains one of its standout creations, embodying Yema's perfect blend of style and functionality. But beyond this iconic piece, a deeper exploration of Yema's history reveals a treasure trove of innovative designs that have catered to diverse tastes and needs, showing how the brand has evolved into the strong, enduring entity it is today.

Reviving the legacy of French watchmaking with a nostalgic touch

Since YEMA was founded in 1949, its story spans over 75 years, and while it would be a lengthy task to cover every detail from the brand's early days, I'd like to provide a brief overview to lay the foundation of its rich history. YEMA was founded in 1949 by Henri Louis Blum, a skilled watchmaker born in 1912. After graduating from the prestigious National Watchmaking School in Besançon and gaining valuable experience at LIP, Blum set out to establish his own brand. With a team of five young watchmakers, he launched YEMA, focusing on high-quality craftsmanship and innovative design. Under his leadership, YEMA quickly gained recognition for its timepieces, such as the Miniplan, a slim "extra-flat" watch, and established strong partnerships with Swiss and French suppliers for movements. The creation of SORMEL in 1953, a company dedicated to optimizing YEMA’s manufacturing, allowed the brand to significantly increase production, reaching 100,000 watches annually. By 1961, YEMA had expanded internationally, earning the prestigious Oscar of Export in recognition of its excellence. That year, the company also opened a modern factory, further cementing its growth and success.

The 1956 Yema Mimiplan with a fascinating case-back pattern. (Photo Credit: Leclubyema)

However, the rise of the Quartz revolution in the 1970s posed a major challenge to traditional watchmaking, and YEMA faced increasing pressure from global players like Seiko. In 1971, several French brands, including YEMA, formed the Montrelec consortium to develop a 100% French quartz movement, but the project ultimately failed. By 1978, YEMA was partly acquired by Jaeger, which took a 35% stake in the brand. This marked the beginning of YEMA’s shift away from family ownership, as the company struggled to adapt to the changing market. In 1982, the French government’s nationalization policies and the restructuring of the watchmaking sector led to further changes in ownership, and in 1988, the Hattori Group (Seiko’s parent company) acquired YEMA, fully integrating it into Seiko’s global distribution network. This acquisition marked the end of YEMA’s era as a family-owned business and signaled the broader consolidation of European watch brands under conglomerate control.

A 1970s R33 Exachron quartz caliber by LIP. (Photo Credit: Crazywatches)

Henri Louis Blum’s son, Henry-John Belmont, took over leadership after his father’s retirement in the late 1970s. Belmont had gained significant experience in the watch industry, particularly through his work with Richemont, where he played a pivotal role in integrating brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Montblanc. Despite YEMA’s transition to Seiko’s ownership, Belmont continued to have an impact on the industry, contributing his expertise through a consulting firm, “Belmont Conseil Et Associés,” which he founded after retiring in 2014. The shift from a family-owned brand to being part of multinational conglomerates like Jaeger and Seiko reflected the broader transformation of the watch industry during the Quartz crisis, where traditional brands struggled to compete with the rise of quartz technology and global market consolidation.
The story of YEMA continues to unfold in 2024, and remains one of our cherished partners with whom we share an unwavering passion for horology. The brand's journey is far from complete, having overcome numerous challenges, including its time under the Hattori Group in the 1990s. For those eager to explore the next chapter, Part II of this article is available on the Gnomon website, where we delve deeper into YEMA's modern resurgence, groundbreaking collections, and strategic collaborations. In this continuation, we also examine how the brand navigated the dark days of the Quartz Crisis, blending its storied heritage with forward-thinking innovations. Today, under the ownership of Montres Ambre de Morteau, a family-run French watchmaking group, YEMA's legacy is being reinvigorated with each passing year. It’s a rare privilege to chronicle the remarkable transformation of a watch brand, and as we look back at the most compelling stories of 2024, who could ignore this captivating journey?



3. An intimate review of The Citizen Eco Drive Tosa Washi – August 05, 2024

The Citizen Tosa Washi has made a striking appearance in the market since it first hit the display racks. Citizen, a brand that is synonymous with Japan, stands alongside Seiko and Casio as part of the "Big 3" that revolutionized watchmaking in Japan. As a Japanese Domestic Model (JDM), the Tosa Washi is not commonly found in other places, but fortunately, Gnomon Watches offers an extensive collection of JDM timepieces, including this standout model.



Citizen is well-known for its Eco-Drive solar-powered movement, a remarkable technology that eliminates the need for manual winding, even after the watch has been left unworn for an extended period. True to Citizen's legacy, the Tosa Washi is powered by the Eco-Drive movement, ensuring reliable performance with minimal maintenance. The first impression of this watch is undeniably impressive, particularly its dial and case. The handmade Tosa Washi dial, crafted from traditional Japanese paper, exudes a gentle, calming aesthetic, and its texture gives the watch a distinct character. The silver hands and markers appear to float effortlessly above the snow-like dial, creating a striking interplay of textures that resemble a piece of art.

Another standout feature is the titanium case, which provides a featherlight wearing experience, weighing just 86g even in a 40mm diamater. The use of Grade 5 titanium makes the watch lighter than typical stainless steel while being more durable, debunking the myth that lightweight watches are fragile. The well-balanced weight makes the Tosa Washi incredibly comfortable to wear for extended periods, without the heaviness or discomfort often associated with traditional watches. The case is finely polished and brushed with Zaratsu polishing, a process that results in a breathtaking, mirror-like finish. This combination of design elements makes the Tosa Washi an outstanding and unique piece.



Overall, this timepiece exudes a premium, serene look and has certainly captivated many with its beauty. From the fine, intricate details to its overall aesthetics and comfort, the Citizen Tosa Washi has successfully differentiated itself from many other watches. It perfectly balances vintage charm with modern minimalism, offering a truly special piece of Japanese craftsmanship. If you ever have the chance to hold this watch in your hands, I highly recommend doing so—it’s an experience you won’t soon forget.



4. A Visit to YEMA Workshop 2024 – October 21, 2024

As mentioned earlier, Yema has been a cherished partner of ours for many years. In 2024, we were fortunate enough to accept their heartfelt invitation to visit their workshop in Morteau, giving our team a unique opportunity to better understand their operations. The excitement was palpable as we flew all the way from Singapore to Geneva, eager to finally meet the Yema team in person, after months of virtual communication through emails and Zoom calls. Yema's headquarters, located at the heart of Morteau, is where the magic happens, and we were honored to dive deep into their operations. We were granted an exclusive look at their entire process, from cutting metal pieces to creating components for their in-house calibers—an opportunity few brands offer, and one we truly appreciated. Watching their skilled operators meticulously clean, polish, and assemble components gave us valuable insight into the technical challenges involved in crafting accurate and reliable movements.

YEMA and Ambre group heandquarters in Morteau

The experience was made even more special by meeting Anthony, Yema’s designer, who generously shared his process of designing and troubleshooting the in-house calibers. We were amazed by the original drawings he showed us, with detailed views from every angle. Our tour continued to the engraving and polishing department, where operators demonstrated the use of laser cutting on watch parts and the precision involved in polishing. The conversation flowed seamlessly, even during lunch, as both sides exchanged stories and experiences. We then visited the administrative and storage departments, where we gained an understanding of the vital roles each employee plays in Yema's success. In the storeroom, we were delighted to see models that were no longer in production, evoking a sense of nostalgia for these long-lost timepieces.

The tour culminated in a visit to the assembly and watchmaking team, where we witnessed firsthand the intricate process of bringing each Yema timepiece to life. It was fascinating to see the watchmakers work with such focus and care, assembling small components with precision. Yema’s team explained the final quality control checks, including assembly verification and professional tests like water pressure tests, to ensure each watch's durability. We also had the privilege of meeting the R&D workshop team, who collaborate closely with Anthony on adjusting and improving movements. Our visit ended with a short interview with Christopher, Yema's leader, who shared some horological treasures from Yema's past, further deepening our appreciation for the brand's rich history.

Some vintage YEMAs from Christopher’s collection

This journey was a beautiful reminder of the close-knit community within the world of horology, even when we're separated by distance. Yema's commitment to excellence shines through in every aspect of their work, from designing and producing in-house movements to the final assembly of each timepiece. The collaboration between designers, engineers, and watchmakers is what makes Yema's watches so innovative and beautiful. Looking back on this experience, it remains one of the most memorable highlights of the year.



5. What Matters #7 Compulsion For Good Designs Through One’s Belief – December 18, 2024 

It’s been a while since the last “What Matters” article was published in 2021, but in 2024, Samuel, a senior member of the Gnomon team, has returned with a new piece that dives into the evolution of watch design and what makes certain timepieces truly stand out. Of course, design is inherently subjective—what appeals to one person may not to another—but understanding different perspectives can help expand your own tastes. Design can captivate you in many ways: whether it’s through a unique or stunning aesthetic, the story behind its creation, or the personality of the designer that shines through. A designer’s ultimate goal is to create with the user in mind, offering solutions that not only meet functional needs but also enhance the overall experience. In the world of horology, what began as simple timekeeping has evolved into an impressive collection of watches that blend artistry, craftsmanship, and innovation. There are several key points raised in the article that really caught my attention—so let’s dive into them!

Firstly, the idea of “form follows function” in watch design really resonates with me. It's fascinating how tool watches, built for practical purposes, can also be beautifully designed. Take the Grand Seiko with its Zaratsu polishing, or the IWC Mojave Desert with its desert tan ceramic case—they’re not just functional, they’re works of art. I’m personally drawn to how these designs manage to blend craftsmanship and practicality so effortlessly. Then there’s the work of independent watchmakers like Stepan Sarpaneva, Ming Thein, and Hajime Asaoka. I can’t help but be in awe of how they challenge the conventions of watchmaking, pushing the boundaries of what a timepiece can be.

Stunning craftmanship from the inside out with the Ming 17.09 in blue (Photo Credit: Monochrome)

There’s something exhilarating about discovering timepieces that break tradition, with quirky, distinctive designs that demand attention. It’s not just that they’re “nice”—it’s how bold, different, and full of character they are. Every time I see a unique design, like the MB&F Horological Machine #3, I’m blown away by how a designer can turn an idea into a wearable piece of art. When I first saw it, I thought, “How did they come up with this?” It shattered my view of what a watch could be. Samuel also shared how his own appreciation for watchmaking deepened through projects like the 50 Atmos LAB 1 with Squale, blending steampunk with a classic dive design—an endeavor that took nearly two years to perfect.. His journey of creating timepieces that reflect a true passion for horological artistry resonates with me, and it deepens my own appreciation for the craft.

The HM #3 that is captivating and push the horology boundaries into another level. (Photo Credit: MB and F)

Though I haven’t had the chance to participate directly in the design process, I find immense joy in holding different watches, delving into their specifications, and learning about the stories and craftsmanship behind them. Every piece tells a unique story—one that speaks to the designer’s vision and the watchmaker's skill.



Conclusion

As we wrap up our roundup of the top 5 articles for 2024, it’s clear that this year has been one of innovation, tradition, and personal connections within the watchmaking world. From YEMA’s inspiring revival, culminating in its acquisition by Montres Ambre de Morteau, to our exploration of the evolution of watch design and standout timepieces, and our team’s visits to Hitori’s workshop and YEMA’s headquarters, we’ve gained a deeper appreciation for the meticulous artistry behind each piece. These experiences have allowed us to share our passion for horology while witnessing firsthand the dedication that drives this craft. These stories reflect the creativity, passion, and innovation propelling the industry forward, offering a glimpse into the future of watchmaking. As the year unfolds, it’s clear that these remarkable journeys and the watches they produce will continue to captivate and inspire both enthusiasts and collectors alike. I am just so thrilled to embrace another year filled with uncertainty and the excitement of surprising new timepieces making their way into the world.