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A Traveller’s Companion
Let The Ultimate Better of the Do-It-All GMTs from the Land of the Rising Sun.
Published by: Samuel Ng
Hitori’s new Meguro series represents the indie brand’s vision of the perfect travel watch, balancing elegance with a hint of sportiness. The initial release includes three models: the Aki Kyo (Autumn), Fuyu White (Winter), and the limited Pale Planet edition, which have captivated the Hitori community with their exquisite craftsmanship and deep ties to Japanese culture. These watches emphasize the brand's dedication to artistry, tradition, and unique design, further solidified by the artistic collaboration for the Pale Planet. The series draws its inspiration from the serene charm of Tokyo’s Meguro ward, a district known for its iconic Meguro River. This peaceful river, lined by nearly 800 cherry blossom trees, offers a tranquil escape amidst bustling shopping streets and lively city life. During cherry blossom season, the area transforms into an ethereal retreat, evoking a sense of calm that contrasts beautifully with the vibrant energy of Tokyo. Situated just a stone’s throw from the dynamic Shibuya district, Meguro strikes a balance between liveliness and serenity.
The Meguro series strikes a perfect balance between the bustling energy of city life and serene moments of introspection. It epitomizes sophisticated casualness, making it an exceptional GMT sports watch for travelers who seek both adventure and peace. For many Japanese watch enthusiasts, the collection may evoke memories of a specific Seiko grail: the Grand Seiko’s first GMT Spring Drive, Ref. SBGE001. While there are echoes of similarity in their designs, the two are distinct in their own right, each celebrating the spirit and culture of Asia—especially Japan—in a unique and meaningful way.
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My personal Grand Seiko (GS) SBGE001 |
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My new personal Hitori Meguro GMT Aki Koyo |
Some might wonder—how does the Meguro GMT stand out? To answer this, I’m diving into a detailed, hands-on comparison of both timepieces, exploring their features at a macro level. I’ll highlight how the Meguro GMT is designed to be the ultimate travel companion—a versatile, go-anywhere-do-anything timepiece for modern explorers.
As mentioned earlier, Hitori’s first all-rounder GMT series brings several key value propositions to the table. These include an exceptional fit and feel on the wrist, a stunning dial design that stands out in its price range, and the remarkable polishing and finishing—hallmarks of Hitori Watch Co. After spending countless hours perfecting the Meguro collection during the design process and owning the Grand Seiko SBGE001 for over a decade, I’m excited to take you on an in-depth exploration of what makes the Meguro so unique. This article isn’t about comparing Hitori to Grand Seiko in a competitive sense but instead aims to celebrate the incredible craftsmanship and design of the Meguro collection, showcasing its beauty and functionality inside and out.
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For the sake of this article, et’s compare how the Hitori GMT measures up against my grand SBGE001 |
Aesthetic Overview
First thing first, it is readily apparent that the Meguro GMTs are mechanical daily-beaters:
1. 39.6mm in diameter, 47.5mm lug to lug, 12.5mm thick.
2. Entirely done in 316L stainless steel material from case to bracelet.
3. Multi-finished in satin-brushed and high polished, done with Hitori’s integrated polishing method.
4. Runs on the Miyota 9075 automatic GMT caliber - 24 jewels, 28,800BPH, power reserve of 40 hours, primary hour-hand adjustment in both directions.
5. Unique textured/ material dials with applied indexes.
The Meguro GMT collection, crafted from durable 316L stainless steel, strikes an impeccable balance between aesthetics and practicality. Designed with meticulous attention to detail, it offers a comfortable fit for wrists of all sizes. Despite its slim and refined profile, the watch boasts an impressive 150m water resistance, making it a dependable companion for any adventure. The thoughtfully engineered case design adds a layer of sophistication, with its sleek silhouette presenting a refined complexity when viewed from the side. It's a timepiece that seamlessly integrates into your daily life, accompanying you effortlessly on every journey without feeling cumbersome.
A Long Overdue Compact Case Design
The Meguro GMT sets itself apart with a meticulously crafted case and bracelet design. Unlike its Grand Seiko counterpart, Hitori’s thoughtful approach to sizing and signature polishing showcases the attention to detail poured into this new sports collection—designed to be the ultimate travel companion, no matter the destination.
You see, Grand Seiko’s SBGE001, when first introduced, was a groundbreaking timepiece, celebrated for its innovative Spring Drive movement and flawless finishing. It became a favorite among collectors for good reason. However, since its debut, along with various colorways and collaborations, the GMT lineup from Grand Seiko has remained unchanged in terms of size. The SBGE001 and its counterparts still measure a substantial 44mm in diameter and 15mm thick—a size comparable on paper to a classic Panerai Luminor.
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The OG Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE001 |
This challenge inspired Hitori’s approach to its Japanese-inspired Sports GMT. From the start, the design team aimed to create a watch with unisex sizing that appeals to modern enthusiasts. The goal was to hit the “goldilocks” zone—just under 40mm—for a balanced look that avoids being overly vintage-like, as seen in 36mm models. Slimness was another priority, a particularly tough requirement when factoring in the robust specifications of a sports watch, such as 100-200m water resistance. Achieving the ideal size and functionality without increasing case thickness—a common trade-off for dive watches and similar models—was no small feat. After three to four months of detailed discussions and collaboration with engineers and specialists, Hitori succeeded in crafting a watch that seamlessly combines form and function.
The Meguro GMT is a study in balanced proportions, measuring 39.6mm in diameter with a lug-to-lug length of 47.5mm and a thickness of 12.5mm, inclusive of its sapphire crystal. It is rated to an impressive 150 meters of water resistance—an engineering feat that underscores the brand’s meticulous attention to detail and dedication to robust functionality.
These dimensions contribute to a watch that wears comfortably on the wrist, striking a harmonious balance between presence and practicality. Its versatility is equally noteworthy, seamlessly transitioning from casual poolside lounging during tropical getaways to handling the rigors of recreational diving. Just as easily, the Meguro GMT pairs effortlessly with formal attire, exuding understated elegance when the occasion calls for refinement. This all-rounder encapsulates the ethos of thoughtful watchmaking, where form and function coexist in perfect harmony.
Even Nailing The Sound Of The Bezel Action
One aspect of the Hitori Meguro GMT that truly stands out is the bezel’s proportions and finishing—a testament to thoughtful design and meticulous craftsmanship. The bezel boasts a slim profile when viewed from any angle, enhancing the overall svelte silhouette of the case. Its grooves are exquisitely finished and project only slightly from the mid-case, creating a harmonious flow that seamlessly integrates the bezel into the case design. The mid-case gently tapers inward, transitioning smoothly from the bezel to the case back, resulting in a design that exudes elegance and fluidity.
Some might assume that the slim grooves would compromise usability, but that is far from the truth. Neither Hitori’s customers nor I have experienced any difficulty in operating the bi-directional bezel. The extended grooves are not just a design flourish but a practical feature, providing ample grip and ensuring effortless rotation, regardless of the situation.
Hitori didn’t stop at aesthetics—they paid equal attention to the bezel’s tactile experience. Many bi-directional GMT bezels, whether friction-based or frictionless, suffer from issues like a loose feel or a cheap, plasticky sound. While a frictionless bezel might eliminate some of these problems, it often sacrifices the tactile satisfaction of precise clicks and introduces the risk of accidental rotations. Hitori, however, opted for a more considered approach.
The result? A bezel action that is both tight and smooth, striking a perfect balance between precision and ease of use. Each click is a sensory delight—crisp, solid, and utterly satisfying. For a watch enthusiast who obsesses over the finer details, especially when it comes to an indie brand championing Japanese craftsmanship, this attention to detail is deeply gratifying. Hitori has taken what many brands overlook and turned it into a standout feature, demonstrating their commitment to excellence and earning the respect of collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Check out the click sound and bezel action here.
Craftsmanship That Shines Inside and Out
The meticulous polishing that graces every Hitori timepiece, particularly the Meguro GMT, is a hallmark of the brand’s unwavering commitment to craftsmanship. This latest addition to their sports collection builds upon the legacy of fine detailing that has become synonymous with Hitori. The case design of the Meguro GMT speaks volumes about the brand’s dedication to excellence, combining robust functionality with aesthetic refinement to cater to the discerning tastes of seasoned watch enthusiasts.
The case itself is a study in ergonomic precision and visual elegance. It features gracefully down-turned lugs that ensure a comfortable fit on the wrist, a screw-down case-back that enhances durability, and a sizeable crown positioned at 3 o’clock for ease of operation. Rated for more rigorous activities, the case offers a formidable construction, yet it is the artistic execution of the finishing that truly sets it apart.
At the heart of this watch’s allure lies the integrated polishing, executed with such finesse that it elevates the entire design. The interplay of brushed and polished finishes creates a dynamic visual contrast, with each facet sculpted to perfection. The precision with which the lines and edges are executed speaks to the expertise of the artisans behind its creation. Far from being merely decorative, this attention to detail transforms the Meguro GMT into a piece that demands to be admired and appreciated.
Hitori’s approach to case finishing draws heavily on the time-honored traditions of Japanese watchmaking. The result is a multi-faceted case that stands as a true work of art. High-polished chamfers frame satin-finished surfaces with an exactitude rarely seen at this price point. These chamfers, polished to a distortion-free mirror finish, accentuate the case’s intricate geometry, striking a perfect balance between sportiness and sophistication.
The construction process is as rigorous as it is meticulous, involving over seven distinct steps to achieve the final result. From the flawlessly curved sides to the precisely finished inner lugs, every surface is treated with unparalleled care and expertise. This painstaking attention not only enhances the visual appeal of the watch but also ensures an ergonomic fit that feels as premium as it looks.
The Meguro GMT’s case is not just a functional enclosure for its movement—it is a defining element that encapsulates Hitori’s philosophy of marrying traditional craftsmanship with modern design. It stands as a symbol of the brand’s commitment to creating timepieces that resonate with both form and function, making each glance at the watch an experience in itself.
For a deeper appreciation of the Meguro GMT’s craftsmanship, it is worth placing it side-by-side with a Grand Seiko counterpart. Such a comparison not only highlights the Meguro’s strengths but also allows a nuanced understanding of how Hitori has carved out its place in the world of fine watchmaking.
Meguro GMT VS GS Spring Drive GMT
This article takes a closer look at the Hitori Meguro GMT and compares it directly to my Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT, Ref. SBGE001, to explore the distinctions in design and craftsmanship. Despite their different price points and brand philosophies, the results might surprise you.
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The unrivalled Zaratsu finishing on the GS |
Having spent considerable time with my Grand Seiko and more recently handling the 2024 Meguro GMT, I can confidently say that the Meguro offers a level of finishing that’s closer to Grand Seiko than one might expect. For instance, while Grand Seiko’s renowned Zaratsu polishing is unrivaled in its precision and brilliance, the Meguro GMT achieves an estimated 75–80% of that quality. Remarkably, this is offered at a fraction of the cost, with the Meguro GMT priced between $700 and $1,000 USD, making it an outstanding value proposition.
When it comes to the details, Grand Seiko’s finishing is a benchmark of excellence, showcasing immaculate craftsmanship that justifies its place in the luxury segment. Yet Hitori’s approach to finishing is commendable for its ingenuity and execution. Rather than following the conventional polishing methods seen on the underside of the case profile in Grand Seiko, Hitori took a bold step by applying satin finishing to the concave bottom sides of the Meguro GMT. This deliberate contrast enhances the watch’s overall visual appeal.
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The Meguro GMT (top) has a satin-brushed finishing as compared to the GS GMT (Bottom) |
Achieving this satin-brushed finish, particularly on the curved surfaces, required immense skill and additional effort. The consistency of the brushing, matched seamlessly with the polished surfaces atop the lugs, is a testament to Hitori’s commitment to craftsmanship. After extensive trials and long hours, the Meguro GMT emerged with a sportier and more dynamic aesthetic, holding its own in the realm of high-quality finishing.
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The beefier case of the SBGE001 clads a mirror-polished finishing on the sides |
The bracelet of the Meguro is a deliberate and thoughtful homage to the Grand Seiko (GS) “five-link” design, echoing elements found in Hitori’s Yoshino and Somei Yoshino models, as well as the GS SBGE001. Its construction comprises three satin-finished central links flanked by polished edges. While it lacks the razor-sharp brilliance of GS’s zaratsu-polished outer edges—a signature hallmark of Grand Seiko—the Meguro’s bracelet achieves an impressive 80% resemblance. This slight variation imbues the bracelet with a more understated elegance, complementing the rugged design of the case without veering into overt refinement.
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Similar designs, yet different clasp and finishing techniques |
Where the Meguro sets itself apart is in the clasp. GS’s square-shaped bi-fold clasp, which lacks micro-adjustments, has always been a curious omission for a sports watch, often undermining its practicality. In contrast, Hitori adopts a more utilitarian approach, outfitting the Meguro with a robust clasp that features a signed flip-lock and traditional pin-hole micro-adjustments. The result is a clasp that feels rugged yet proportionate, perfectly sized to complement the watch’s slim and well-balanced case without compromising its utility or aesthetic harmony.
This meticulous attention to detail exemplifies Hitori’s thoughtful approach to the Meguro series. By refining both the bracelet and clasp to balance form and function seamlessly, Hitori has created a design that feels well-resolved and complete. It is a compelling execution that sets a high standard for sports watches in its class. One can only hope that Grand Seiko will eventually address the limitations of its current clasp design, particularly for its otherwise excellent SBGE Spring Drive series.
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The bi-fold clasp from GS might not be apt for a sports watch, but serving its purpose nevertheless |
The same can be said for the bezel action. In this regard, I find the Meguro GMT has a slight edge over the Grand Seiko. To be clear, both bezels are exceptionally well-executed—Grand Seiko’s reputation for quality craftsmanship is well-deserved. However, when comparing these GMT models, the Meguro pulls ahead with its soothing and distinct click sounds, offering a more engaging tactile experience compared to the SBGE001’s bezel action, which, while solid and precise, feels more muted in comparison.
Fit and finishing present another intriguing comparison. The Grand Seiko GMT undeniably feels more substantial on the wrist, a quality that reflects its status and meticulous construction. The heft and refinement are immediately apparent when handling both watches. That said, the Meguro GMT punches well above its weight. It offers a tactile experience and visual execution that are exceptional for its price point. In fact, it holds its ground remarkably well when placed side by side with its “Grand” sibling.
In summary, while the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT remains a paragon of luxury craftsmanship, the Hitori Meguro GMT offers an accessible yet highly commendable alternative, proving that exceptional finishing and design can transcend price tiers.
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The SBGE001 still sitting at the top echelon for Sports GMT genre. |
The Indelible Dial Works
Acknowledging the textured artistry of nature, Hitori continues to weave its eastward spirit into the heart of its dial designs. Since the brand’s inception in 2020 with the debut of the Ryukyu Skin-diver, the drive to craft dials steeped in Japanese sensibility has been at the core of its philosophy. Drawing from Japan’s landscapes and shifting seasons (with whispers of inspirations expanding across Asia), Hitori Watch Co. has cultivated a focus on artisanal dials as a cornerstone of its identity.
The Meguro dials encapsulate a snowy, nature-inspired texture—evocative of pristine snowpacks—with a satin-like finish that mirrors the tranquility and grace of the winter season. For the inaugural models, the Fuyu White and Aki-Koyo, Hitori leaned into the success of the Yoshino collection’s cherry blossom motifs, this time pairing them with the latter half of the year’s seasonal palette. The Aki-Koyo embodies the vibrant hues of autumn, while the Fuyu White embraces the purity and stillness of winter. Together, these nature-inspired twins bring cultural depth to otherwise utilitarian sports watches, harmonizing practicality with poetic elegance.
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The reddish-brown hue encapsulates the Autumn season |
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A multi-process manufacturing to produce Hitori’s textured dials |
The dial’s unique livery stems from a meticulous multi-stage process. It begins with precision-stamping the textured pattern onto a brass dial blank—an intricate technique that creates a dynamic, uneven surface rather than a flat plane. Following this, multiple layers of treatment are applied to achieve a subtle gloss and variegated finish. The final touch lies in the carefully curated color choices for each model, perfectly aligned with the collection’s nature-inspired themes. Hitori’s attention to detail is evident in their precise color-matching—whether it’s the crisp white of snowpacks or the rich, reddish-brown hues of autumn maple leaves. Even the bezel is thoughtfully matched to complement these tones, demonstrating Hitori’s deep commitment to harmonious design.
Elevating Craft with Nature and Tradition
The textured dial’s complexity rivals that of traditional enamel dials, underscoring Hitori’s commitment to artistry. The “snowpack” texture, an emblem of the brand’s ethos, is just one facet of their approach. Hitori doesn’t simply draw inspiration from nature; they channel its essence through the lens of traditional craftsmanship.
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Levi’s collaborative Yoshino with an enamel dial |
A prime example is the Yoshino “Red Hoodie” Edition, unveiled in 2024 as a collaboration with digital artist Levi. This special piece celebrates the art of enamel dial-making, showcasing Hitori’s dedication to marrying artistry with precision. Similarly, the Meguro GMT Collection highlights another artistic partnership with Kolahon, resulting in the striking Pale Planet Edition (insert Kolahon link), further cementing Hitori’s reputation as a bridge between heritage and innovation.
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The Kolahon’s Pale Planet edition with the incredible enamel dial works |
Each of these creations relies on Hitori’s seasoned artisans, whose expertise mirrors the techniques of Japanese enamel pottery and art. The multi-step process ensures every dial boasts an exquisite, luminous finish. The result is nothing short of extraordinary: a soft yet radiant surface, a testament to Hitori’s ability to modernize traditional methods while preserving their essence.
Expanding Horizons with Art and Craft
Hitori continues to push boundaries by introducing unique materials and textures. The Meguro GMT Tora Edition integrates a double-signed dial, featuring a traditional tiger painting alongside an exotic aventurine option. This ambitious release builds on the success of the Yoshino Blossom Pink Edition, incorporating cultural motifs into cutting-edge watchmaking. The tiger painting, rooted in the Tokugawa period, symbolizes strength and courage while acting as a protective charm. Rich in detail, the painting captures the dynamic majesty of a tiger in motion, balanced by the brushstroke inscription of “Meguro,” which adds elegance and cultural depth.
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The Tora edition packs an unique “Tiger” painting |
Meanwhile, the Hoshizora Aventurine Edition channels the serene beauty of a starry night sky. The aventurine dial, crafted from glass infused with copper oxide and cobalt during its molten state, sparkles like a celestial canvas. This shimmering effect, achieved through Hitori’s mastery of the craft, rivals the natural brilliance of quartz-based aventurine. The execution is a testament to Hitori’s technical expertise and artistic vision, making each dial a masterpiece of form and function.
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The Aventurine edition is the current most elegant GMT piece from Hitori |
Whether through traditional tiger motifs, shimmering aventurine dials, or nature-inspired enamel textures, Hitori bridges heritage and innovation, elevating watchmaking into a celebration of artistry and culture. Their ability to seamlessly blend heritage with contemporary craftsmanship sets them apart, ensuring each timepiece resonates with collectors as a true work of art.
The Dial Craftsmanship: A Testament to Hitori’s Mastery
Alright, let’s delve further into Hitori’s exquisite finishing techniques, which leave an indelible impression on watch enthusiasts. The artistry is immediately evident in the applied markers, date window, and handsets of their timepieces. Let’s begin with the applied markers: each faceted block is designed to mirror the shape of the case, creating a dance of reflections from every angle. The facets are polished to a flawless mirror finish, a hallmark of meticulous craftsmanship reserved for only the most assured designs. This level of refinement extends to the bold, blunt-ended handsets, which achieve a balance of harmony and minimalism, all while maintaining distortion-free clarity. Every element on the dial is sharply defined, no matter the angle of observation.
The date display at 3 o’clock is another showcase of Hitori’s attention to detail. Its high-gloss metal trim is accompanied by a shorter adjacent marker for visual symmetry. Hitori has gone the extra mile by framing the date window with a fully convex metallic border, an element that mirrors the level of finishing found throughout the dial. The polished inner edge draws the eye to the numeral, while the outer edge gleams with the same precision as the markers. This feature is not merely functional but speaks volumes about Hitori’s design philosophy, emphasizing aspects others might deem insignificant. Such details highlight Hitori’s dedication to thoughtful design and their ability to imbue their timepieces with a sense of precision and purpose.
The GMT hand, a critical element for dual-time functionality, is thoughtfully color-matched to the tones of each Meguro edition. It strikes a perfect balance of proportion, tracing the dial, bezel, and minute and 24-hour inner rehaut with grace, never appearing out of place or stubby.
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The Yoshino Sakura Masu (Top) clads a similar finished markers as the GS (bottom) |
Now, comparing this to Grand Seiko—a benchmark in dial refinement—Grand Seiko’s CNC-polished markers and hands are unparalleled in their precision and radiance. They exhibit an iridescent shimmer that exudes class and elegance, placing them in a league of their own, even above many Swiss counterparts. That said, Hitori’s Yoshino Sakura Masu bridges the gap impressively. Its upgraded CNC-ed applied markers bear a striking resemblance to Grand Seiko’s, offering a glimpse of what lies ahead in Hitori’s evolution. With each release, Hitori edges closer to establishing its own mark in the realm of fine watchmaking, but I digress.
For now, it’s safe to say that Hitori’s attention to detail, from the smallest marker to the dial’s overall composition, is a testament to their commitment to quality and innovation.
The 9 Series Miyota Is As Good As It Gets
As we all know, Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movements are the pinnacle of Japanese horological innovation, so comparing them here would be akin to pitting an apple against a watermelon. That said, the Meguro GMT proudly showcases its premium Japanese engine through a custom case-back crystal treated with a pinkish-red AR coating. Beneath this elegant detail lies Hitori’s choice of mechanical movement: the GMT automatic calibre Miyota 9075.
This particular movement is a marvel, not just within Japan but also on the global stage, competing confidently with its Swiss counterparts. And I stand by that. The 9075 is a “flyer” GMT movement, meaning the local hour hand adjusts independently—a feature prized by seasoned travelers and purists alike. This puts it in the same league as top-tier GMT movements such as Grand Seiko’s 9S66 and Rolex’s 3285.
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All Miyota movements come only from the Citizen’s Miyota factory in Japan (Photo Credit: Shimz) |
While those Swiss and Japanese giants employ rigorous hand-assembly and testing standards, the Miyota 9075 is no slouch. Produced by Miyota Precision Co., Ltd., a Citizen subsidiary established in 1959, the 9075 is part of the celebrated 9000 series, introduced in 2010. Designed to challenge the dominance of Swiss-made movements like ETA and Sellita, the 9000 series has proven to be a bold and successful leap forward for Miyota.
This movement offers a sleeker case profile and superior precision compared to the Seiko NH calibers previously seen in Hitori’s collections. Manufactured entirely in Japan at Miyota’s state-of-the-art facilities, the 9075 features 24 jewels, manual winding capability, hacking seconds, and a 4Hz (28,800 BPH) beat rate for enhanced accuracy. Its hallmark flyer-style adjustment allows the wearer to seamlessly set the local hour hand while keeping the home time undisturbed—a practical feature for the modern globetrotter.
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The incredible Miyota facility where everything is done internally (Photo Credit: Europastar) |
The movement boasts a 41-hour power reserve when fully wound, ensuring reliable performance through extended wear. Adding to its allure is the heat-treated rotor, adorned with a traditional Japanese wave pattern. Hitori elevates this further with a custom ultraviolet-treated rotor, ensuring each piece is uniquely hued and unmistakably one-of-a-kind. The dedication to craftsmanship doesn’t end there: engraved on every rotor is a quote from Mitsuo Aida, the renowned Zen poet and calligrapher. It reads:
“人生において 最も大切な時 それはいつでも いまです,” or, “In life, the most important moment is always now,” serves as a poignant reminder of Mitsuo Aida’s philosophy—a celebration of the present amidst the chaos of modern distractions. This thoughtful inclusion perfectly encapsulates what the brand has strived to convey since its inception: an embodiment of the Japanese ethos, radiating through its dedication to timeless craftsmanship and the cultural narrative that surrounds it.
Now, let’s address a common misconception in the hobby: the belief that indie and microbrands can easily access Miyota’s premium movements. That couldn’t be further from the truth. Securing a 9-series calibre, like the 9075, is no small feat. Hitori first had to submit a formal request to Miyota, initiating a thorough vetting process that included site visits and meetings. This evaluation alone took three to four months. Only after gaining approval could Hitori place their order, which took an additional two months to fulfill. The movements, shipped from Miyota’s facility in Nagano Prefecture, underwent strict quality control before being assembled into the Meguro GMT.
The Connecting Thread
Allow me to explain why Hitori’s first Sports GMT release feels like the missing link in the GMT watch market, particularly for Japanese watch enthusiasts or those who appreciate exceptional craftsmanship and attention to detail. As mentioned earlier, slim, well-proportioned mechanical GMT sports watches with superior finishing are rare, often residing in the upper echelons of tool watch offerings—think Grand Seiko, as referenced in this article.
Now, imagine seeking a Japanese-built automatic watch that is versatile enough for any occasion, all under the $1,000 USD price point. Excluding the Seiko 5 Sports lineup and other microbrands using the same Miyota caliber but lacking Japanese assembly or production, the options narrow significantly. Perhaps the Seiko Presage Style ’60s GMT might come to mind, but here’s the catch: it houses the 4R34 caliber, the same one used in the Seiko 5 Sports GMT series. While functional, this movement features an adjustable GMT hand rather than the more coveted “flyer” GMT with a primary hour-hand adjustment—a compromise that some enthusiasts may find less ideal.
The reality is that practical, everyday GMT watches with refined finishing, built to a high standard, have been sorely lacking in this segment. That is, until Hitori’s Meguro GMT collection debuted in 2024. It fills this void with a thoughtful design, impeccable craftsmanship, and the “flyer” GMT functionality that elevates it above its peers—making it not just a watch, but a statement piece for the discerning enthusiast.
Hitori’s Unwavering Vision
Bearing all this in mind, it’s time to share my perspective on Hitori’s vision and, to a certain extent, address some of the more prominent questions surrounding it. There’s no denying that many of Hitori’s case silhouettes, including its other collections, bear a resemblance to specific Grand Seiko models. I’d be the first to acknowledge this, but to dwell solely on that comparison would be to miss the forest for the trees. It would detract from the brand’s steadfast commitment to embodying the essence of Asian heritage and elevating Japanese craftsmanship to its most profound and authentic form.
What Hitori has done is to distill and reinterpret these timeless designs, often considered definitive icons of Japanese watchmaking (think Grammar of Design classics and historical Seiko/Grand Seiko pieces). The brand doesn’t merely imitate but reimagines, pushing the boundaries of Japanese culture and craftsmanship in a way only an indie brand can achieve. Since its inception, Hitori has consistently delivered on this promise, capturing the hearts of its loyal fans.
The new Meguro GMT series is a testament to this philosophy. It exemplifies everything I’ve discussed above, and anyone who handles a Hitori watch will immediately recognize the uncompromising quality embedded in every detail—be it the finely sculpted case, the meticulously engineered bracelet, or the artisanal dials. The Meguro GMT encapsulates Hitori’s core belief: to craft a watch that not only honors Japanese watchmaking traditions but also redefines them, offering something undeniably authentic yet refreshingly innovative.
All that being said, I firmly believe Hitori Watch Co. is poised to evolve from its humble beginnings to even greater heights. By remaining true to its unwavering commitment to crafting premium mechanical timepieces that align seamlessly with its horological ethos, the brand is set to push boundaries with its upcoming models. These future offerings will not only retain Hitori’s signature casework and renowned durability but will also embody a more culturally enriched and distinctively Hitori identity. Each collection promises to be a harmonious blend of legendary craftsmanship and elevated cultural storytelling, setting a new standard for what the brand represents.
Final Thoughts
The Meguro GMT stands as Hitori’s quintessential value proposition for the “Japanese GMT” segment, reflecting the brand’s own philosophy with refined execution that rivals any top-tier JDM timepiece. It embraces the Japanese spirit through a timeless aesthetic that harmonizes form and function. With this release, Hitori offers watch enthusiasts an impeccably executed mechanical daily-beater at an accessible price point, bridging the gap between quality and affordability.
While many sports watches, such as GMT divers or pilot watches, often go unused in their intended roles, the Meguro GMT redefines versatility. Its robust yet elegantly refined design ensures it is not only highly functional but also effortlessly wearable by anyone, regardless of gender, and for any occasion. It is the all-rounder that seamlessly blends purpose and style.
I’m confident that in time, more watch enthusiasts from around the globe will discover Hitori’s charm and inevitably add its creations to their collections. Personally, supporting independent and micro brands like Hitori is a commitment I hold dear. Owning and wearing the Meguro GMT, along with other pieces from the brand, has transformed my perspective on watch collecting. It’s not just about the watch itself—it’s about connecting with the vision and passion of those who created it.
The Meguro GMT has offered me a deeper appreciation for the hobby, one that resonates on a personal level with the shared values of Hitori’s community. The feelings these watches evoke are genuinely beautiful, and this watch exemplifies that beauty in every sense.