What Matters #7

In the “What Matters” series, we share the elements that affect our watch collections. While this may seem personal, we find it an excellent opportunity to share our love for the aspects of horology that matter to us the most: From the particular complications of the watches to our indulgence in strap-changing, or simply our enjoyment of quartz and mechanical timepieces. This series will take us on a journey into this niche hobby to better understand what keeps our passion fired up. Our obsessions keep drawing us back to inform people who are into watches so they can form a consensus with us. Without any further ado, let’s get things started with “What Matters” to us in our voyage of watch-collecting.


Introduction

The Polestar series from Evant Watches is a great introductory on what I’m about to share.

It's incredible how time flies—my last "What Matters" article was published back in 2021. At that time, I was deep into my fourth entry, diving into my obsession with "Vintage Re-issues". After that, I decided to take a break and step away for a while. But now, I feel compelled to return to this series and share more about what truly drives my passion for this hobby.

The themes I explore in this series are never forced—they naturally evolve over time as I reflect on the things that matter most in my daily interactions with watches. For this season’s theme, “A Compulsion for Good Design,” I want to dive deeper into what good design means to me, especially in the realm of horology, and explore the elements that define it.

Recalling back on my previous article, I’ve written:

“From a first impression standpoint, we're often drawn to a particular type of watch simply because of its design…”

I've previously shared a glimpse of my passion for vintage re-issues, but now I’d like to dive deeper into what, for me, makes a design truly captivating—what makes it stand out and grab my attention. Of course, design preferences are subjective, and what I find appealing may not resonate with everyone. After all, "one man's trash is another man's treasure" is a common sentiment when it comes to design, whether good or bad. But hear me out: in this article, I’ll be outlining my personal criteria for what defines a well-executed, artistically crafted timepiece. Hopefully, this exploration will resonate with others and offer a fresh perspective on the qualities that make a design memorable and worthy of appreciation.



In sharing my unique perspective, I seek to connect my seasonal experiences and professional insights with the world of watches, bringing my observations to life in a way that resonates with others. This isn’t about comparing my views to the industry standards set by veterans or defining a universal benchmark for excellence. Instead, this "What Matters" section reflects my personal take on what stands out to me in the world of horology. My team at Gnomon and I have already had the privilege of designing some of the most sought-after collaborative pieces with the brands we carry, including indie names like Dievas and Evant.



What is a good “design” exactly?

My Kurono “Mori” encapsulates a very well designed dress watch from Japan.

Before we dive into the designs that I personally find captivating, let’s take a moment to explore what "good design" truly means. To me, design is more than just a discipline; it’s the art of shaping how we interact with the world around us. Whether it’s the aesthetic appeal, the functionality, or how something fits into the broader cultural and societal context, design is woven into nearly everything we touch in our daily lives. Think about it: the clothes we wear, the devices we use, the transportation we rely on, even the chair you’re sitting in right now—all of it has been carefully crafted by designers. And yes, watches too, naturally.
But beyond function and form, good design also tells a story. It carries cultural significance, reflecting and sometimes even shaping the norms of the time. A designer’s goal is always to see things through the eyes of the user, finding solutions that not only meet needs but also enrich the experience. In the world of horology, what started as simple timekeeping has blossomed into a stunning array of watches that combine artistry, craftsmanship, and innovation. And that’s where the magic of design lies for me—the ability to transform the ordinary into something that resonates on a deeper level.



#1 Who says form follows function has to be boring?

My personal Grand Seiko diver is one premium form-follows-function tool watch.

“Japanese concept of yo no bi, or ‘the beauty of utility.’”

If you've read any of my previous articles (and if you haven’t, feel free to dive in!), you already know I have a passion for well-thought-out designs. By that, I mean watches crafted with purpose. Whether it's a dive watch that can handle 200 to 500 meters of water resistance while still offering clear readability in seconds, or a sleek, three-hand automatic dress watch that exudes elegance—each design serves a unique function. While I’ve touched on sports and dress watches here, these timepieces prove that purpose and aesthetics can go hand in hand.

The 50 Atmos is one classic dive watch design that classifies the “skin diver” theme.

To start, I’m talking about watches like my cherished Grand Seikos or the beautiful Hitori Habuka 39s that I personally own, along with classic tool watches like the Squale 50 Atmos and timeless Damasko fliegers. At first glance, some might consider these choices a bit understated, but for me, they represent a unique blend of function and design that I find genuinely appealing.

Take my Grand Seiko SBGA029 diver, for example. It's more than just a dive watch; it’s a showcase of thoughtful refinements tailored to meet the requirements of legibility and durability. Sure, it might have the recognizable silhouette of a classic diver, but every detail has been executed with such skill. From the flawless Zaratsu polishing to the satisfying clicks of the ceramic bezel, and, of course, the innovative Spring Drive movement, you can feel the craftsmanship. It’s so impeccably built that it almost feels over-engineered, but that’s precisely what makes it special.

Classic teutonic flieger from Germany: Damasko

Uprising Japanese indie brand Hitori and its Habuka series

Then there’s the Hitori Habuka 39, which I’ve come to rely on as an aesthetically pleasing daily beater. It fits comfortably on just about any wrist, and the thoughtful design of the dial and case is hard to ignore. Every element of this watch comes together to create an irresistibly well-executed design package, making it a true standout in my collection.

The 'Mojave Desert' ceramic case IWC Chronograph

The SUF Helsinki 180 field watch (Photo Credit: Timekeepers Club)

As I began curating my watch collection, I couldn’t help but stumble across several timepieces that, while I don’t own them, have captured my admiration from a distance. Well, not that distant—I’ve had the chance to get up close and personal with a few over the years. My watch journey gradually led me toward a deep appreciation for field and flieger watches. These pieces, either directly or subtly inspired by functional, professional timepieces once strapped to the wrists of military personnel around the world, really resonate with me. I’m talking about iconic models like IWC’s pilot chronographs, SUF Helsinki’s rugged field watches, and even Anonimo’s bold dive watches from the late ‘90s.

One standout for me has to be IWC’s Top Gun Edition 'Mojave Desert.' IWC took their classic pilot chronograph and gave it a fresh spin with a stunning desert tan ceramic case—a modern twist on a timeless design. Then there’s SUF Helsinki, which, if you’re familiar with, you’d know is the sportier side of Stepan Sarpaneva, the genius watchmaker from Finland. What draws me to SUF’s field watches is their stripped-back utility. They pull inspiration from military history but are forward-thinking in their simplicity and finish—everything about them speaks to impeccable craftsmanship.

(Photo Credit: Abitspoilt)

A relatively newer Anonimo Milimetri 1000. The designers knew how to make professional tool watches in style, special manufacturing techinques were used to create this diver.

And I can’t forget about Anonimo. Their Millimetri dive watch, crafted by a team of ex-Panerai designers, is something truly special. It’s a 1000m dive watch with a case design that’s anything but conventional. It stands apart from the familiar Pams and Radiomirs the team previously worked on, and I have to admit, I’m a fan of its quirky, yet restrained dial—a perfect nod to Italian flair.

Let me tell you about one of our more recent collaborations that I'm particularly proud of—the Lince Crimson Red, a special model we crafted with Gruppo Ardito Watches (GAW). GAW may be a newer addition to our lineup, but they've been in the game for over a decade, building watches that stand out for their rugged durability and impeccable craftsmanship. Each piece reflects their commitment to quality, with components crafted in-house or by master artisans, always under GAW's expert supervision.

The Lince diver was one of Gruppo Ardito testimony that focus much on professional tool genre.

What really makes their timepieces special is their focus on professional-grade watches, heavily influenced by the needs of divers and military personnel. These are built to withstand the test of time, even under the toughest conditions, while retaining their value.

And here's a personal highlight—our team got to design the dial elements on the Lince Crimson Red. We went for an “explorer” layout, set against a stunning iridescent oxblood red dial that adds a unique, bold character to the watch.

All in all, these watches showcase that even in the world of form-follows-function design, there’s room for remarkable craftsmanship and a dash of style.



#2 Admiring those designers' creations that exude originality

The Finnish watchmaker Stepan Serpaneva from AHCI. (Photo Credit: Monochrome)

As I mentioned earlier, there's an independent watchmaker by the name of Stepan Sarpaneva, whose work embodies a certain magic that I can't help but highlight. Naturally, it leads me to my next point: the designer’s unmistakable Midas touch. Now, as we go through this list, you’ll notice some overlap in my choices—Sarpaneva being one of them. His creations are a testament to his unique design language, which I deeply admire. It’s this kind of originality in horology that I want to celebrate. You see, watchmakers aren’t just craftsmen; they are designers in their own right. Over the years, the market has evolved, and we’ve come to fully appreciate the artistry behind these timepieces—yes, the ‘watchmakers’ who are designers at heart.

I want to stick to my personal favorites when it comes to these incredible watchmakers and their creations, not only to highlight the artistry behind horology but, more importantly, to ignite a new passion in what many outsiders often dismiss as a 'boring' or 'nerdy' hobby. Since we're already talking about Stepan Sarpaneva, I have to admit he was one of the first to pull me deeper into the world of independent watch collecting, far beyond the usual well-known brands. The piece that initially captivated me was his Corona K3 Moonphase model. This watch is a masterpiece, featuring Sarpaneva's iconic multi-layered lattice dial—hand-finished with meticulous care, offering a rare sense of depth that’s seldom found on any watch dial.

Sarpaneva Korona K3 Moonphase from 2017 in Finnish steel (Photo Credit: Watchvault)

The watch’s hands, crafted from steel, alternate between frosted and polished finishes, perfectly complementing his signature moonphase complication, visible at the 6 o’clock position. Here’s a fun fact: the face on the moonphase is actually modeled after Stepan’s own face! There’s so much to admire, from the artistry of the case to the intricate details within the dial. And while the movement is based on the reliable Soprod A10, it’s everything around it that elevates this watch to an exceptional work of horological art.

One of the watches that has truly captivated me is from none other than Ming Thein and his namesake brand. I first encountered Ming in 2017—the same year I came across the Corona K3—and his inaugural piece, the Ming 17.01, instantly lit a fire in me. What fascinated me even more was discovering that Ming, a highly respected photographer and former Chief of Strategy at Hasselblad, hailed from Malaysia, my neighboring country. It was eye-opening to see how someone with such an eye for detail in photography had seamlessly transferred that precision into horology.

Amazing design from the inside out by Ming on the Ming 17.09 in blue. (Photo Credit: Monochrome)

From the striking architectural lugs (which I can’t get enough of) to the dial’s stunning minimalism, every detail of Ming's design is unmistakably his. It still amazes me how he managed to blend so many elements so effortlessly into a watch that just sits perfectly on the wrist—whether you're a man or a woman. Seriously, how does someone pull off such a flawless balance, with such elegance? Best of all, I was lucky enough to get my hands on the 17.09 Blue variant, and for less than a thousand CHF—it felt like I was holding a true masterpiece without breaking the bank.

Managed to collect one of these 2020 anniversary Kurono Mori : 森 (Photo Credit: S Song Watches)

Before I dive into my next design element, I have to mention one more name that’s close to my heart—Mr. Hajime Asaoka, a renowned member of the AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants). He's the mastermind behind two incredible brands: one under his own name and the other, the beloved Kurono Tokyo.
After graduating from Tokyo University of the Arts with a degree in Fine Arts and Design, Hajime started his journey as a product designer in 1992. But in 2005, after designing a watch, he took the plunge into watchmaking, entirely self-taught. The rest, as they say, is history.

Hajime’s Tsunami Classic is one beauty from Japan. (Photo Credit:  Watchprosite)

So, why am I so captivated by Hajime Asaoka’s work? It’s because he brings a pure, authentic Japanese essence into every timepiece he creates. While brands like Seiko and Citizen have sometimes aimed to emulate their Swiss and European counterparts, Hajime’s watches are deeply rooted in Japan’s culture. His designs are a reflection of that unique heritage.

Take his Tsunami timepiece, for example. It was the watch that drew me into his world back in 2016, blending the elegance of Art Deco with a distinctly Japanese sensibility. It was like a prelude to what would come next with his more accessible line, Kurono, which launched in 2019.

The legendary Hajime Asoaka himself at work. (Photo Credit: Tempusfugit)

Kurono Tokyo is all about celebrating traditional Japanese craftsmanship. From the Bunko Tokyo Classics to the Grand Series, each collection showcases artisan-level detail with subtle nods to Japan’s rich cultural history. Small pops of color, unique shapes, and a meticulous approach define the design language of both his namesake brand and Kurono. It’s this fusion of heritage and innovation that makes his work stand out for me.



#3 Exploring Beyond Tradition: Unique Creations with Distinctive Quirks

It’s not surprising that my next point would be something sitting on the other end of the spectrum from point #1. Yes, I’m moving away from time machines that looks much like your traditional Presages, Submariners and 62MAS Skin divers. I’m here talking about full-fletched steampunk watches that makes one think you’re wearing a straight out adult horological toy on the wrist. It might seem like this particular element encapsulating a wide spectrum of anything whimsical, but I’ll filter in to some simple criteria for the sake of this article. One, the watch you see got to be categorised within a certain concept-type of watches, in tandem of being retrofuturistic in style. Secondly, the watch got to be unconventional right off the bat without throwing off its overall intrinsic beauty.

Maximilian Büsser, the founder of MB&F. (Photo Credit: Swiss Watch Passport)

My introduction to avant-garde watchmaking came over a decade ago, thanks to Anders, Gnomon’s founder. He casually mentioned I should check out a brand called MB&F, which stands for Maximilian Büsser and Friends. Back then, I was all about classic timepieces, and to be honest, I wasn’t expecting much beyond that realm. But the moment I started digging into the brand—and learning about Max Büsser himself—everything shifted.

I quickly realized that MB&F had been pioneering these sci-fi-inspired watches as far back as the 1990s. The one that really pulled me in was the MB&F Horological Machine #3. I remember looking at it, thinking, “What on earth is this frog-faced creation? How could anyone dream up something so otherworldly, fully mechanical yet so stylish? One day, I hope I can afford to even try one on.”

The HM #3 is what brings a lot of watch enthusiasts and me into another realm of this hobby. (Photo Credit: MB and F)

My personal Mad 1 “Lucky Clover”

That watch marked a turning point for me. I started following MB&F religiously—just like many of you reading this, I’m sure. And to this day, I remain in awe of what Max and his team continue to bring to life for collectors. While I haven’t been lucky enough to snag one of their iconic, whimsical creations that redefined the industry, I did manage to get my hands on one of their more accessible MAD 1 series pieces (thank you, Max, for making that possible!).

A brand that recently caught my attention, and from a country not typically associated with quirky or even traditional watchmaking, is Behrens Watch. Founded in China in 2012, Behrens is relatively new to the scene but has already made a significant impact. Their timepieces stand out for their forward-thinking designs, all while maintaining the craftsmanship of traditional watchmaking.

Putting a smile to you when you’re having cheese fondue in Geneva.

I first encountered Behrens at the Geneva trade show in 2022, and it was an instant connection. The blue Interstellar and their remarkable collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin, featuring a crystallized titanium case, immediately captivated me. From the avant-garde approach to materials and displaying of time alone speaks volumes about their innovation. After wearing these two cyberpunk pieces for some time, I can truly appreciate the passion and dedication behind the brand. Their pursuit of mechanical excellence blends seamlessly with the traditions of European and Japanese watchmaking, showcasing a unique harmony of cutting-edge technology and timeless craftsmanship.

Let me give you one more example before I move to my final point, this time featuring a brand you may already know: De Bethune. Founded in 2002 by the brilliant French watchmaker Denis Flageollet and his Italian business partner David Zanetta, De Bethune has made a name for itself with bold, avant-garde designs that break away from the traditional watchmaking aesthetic we're all accustomed to. Their creations strike a perfect balance between technical innovation and daring design.

Both the DB28s Kind of Blue and Starry Seas. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee)

The DB28 collection, in particular, ignited a deep passion in me for this unconventional approach. The DB28 "Kind of Blue" is the one that truly captivated me. Denis Flageollet, while experimenting with heat treatment to stabilize titanium balance wheels, made a fascinating discovery: when heated to over 700º Celsius, titanium takes on a mesmerizing, almost cosmic blue hue. This led to the creation of the "Kind of Blue," a masterpiece where the entire blue treatment is meticulously hand-applied, inside and out.

But the color is just the beginning. The DB28’s design is filled with remarkable features, like its open, spring-loaded lugs that "float" on the wrist, providing a unique wear experience. The dial itself is layered with intricate details, culminating in the titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, a balance spring with a flat terminal curve, a silicon escape wheel, and a triple pare-chut shock absorber. This is truly a watch that embodies both artistry and innovation at every level.



#4 When Appreciation Turns Implementation

Putting my personal touch into work.

Over the years, my love for horology has evolved, and I've been fortunate to channel that passion into my career at Gnomon. I've had the privilege to incorporate some of these elements into several collaborative projects and new designs, each thoughtfully crafted with attention to detail. For that, I'm incredibly grateful to Anders and the entire team at Gnomon for giving me the chance to work alongside them.
In the early days of my design journey, I worked on several Steinhart Ocean 39 models, including the Marine Blue and Black, and the Ocean 39 Tropic Plexi, which features a timeless acrylic crystal. While these designs might seem straightforward, getting the details just right was essential. As a collector myself, I knew how important it was to create something that would resonate with fellow enthusiasts without feeling gimmicky.

The unforgettable retro design of Squale’s Tropic Diver GMT.

Of course, I can’t forget our exclusive collaborations with Squale. Together, we brought to life pieces like the 30 Atmos Tropic GMT diver and the 50 Atmos Originale. These designs carried that signature vintage flair we love seeing in the Squale collection, and I'm proud of what we achieved.

We also had the chance to work on other standout projects, like Damasko’s first dive watch, the DSub 1, and Gruppo Ardito’s Lince Crimson Red. Anders and I played a key role in weaving classic colors and unique designs into the DNA of these brands, blending them harmoniously into the final product.

We designed the first Damasko dive watch back in 2017.

Many of the watches I've worked on are inspired by my passion for well-crafted designs, as mentioned in my earlier points. Over the years, I’ve not only had the privilege of exploring countless timepieces, but also the behind-the-scenes work of watchmakers and their facilities. Many of these experiences have shaped the watches I’ve helped create, blending different elements into a single product that makes me say, “Now this is something I’d love to collect as a true enthusiast of well-designed pieces.” Alongside the talented Gnomon team and our manufacturing partners, we’ve had the chance to design some incredible timepieces that reflect these shared experiences.

One of the most exciting projects was our collaboration with Squale. It all started with a bold idea: infusing steampunk elements into their iconic dive watch case. I vividly remember it took us nearly two years to convince our heritage partners at Squale (big thanks to Andrea and Anders!) to embark on this adventure with us. After months of designing and prototyping, we finally brought to life the 50 Atmos LAB 1—a rare, unconventional piece that still honors Squale’s traditions.

A steampunk design within Squale’s classic skin diver ethos.

We knew this model wouldn’t appeal to everyone, especially since many Squale collectors lean towards vintage-inspired designs. But we created it out of sheer passion, and I’m proud we did. It was a fusion of both Gnomon’s and Squale’s distinct styles—different yet undeniably special.

Last but not least, I must mention our Swiss indie brand, Evant Watches, and its Polestar collection. This was the first time I drew inspiration from De Bethune’s DB 25 and 28 dial designs and infused that aesthetic into the brand’s signature retro Tropic Diver DNA. The process of creating this unique dive watch wasn't as simple as one might imagine. Ensuring the design maintained clarity during actual dives was crucial, which meant the applied indexes had to be perfectly legible while harmonizing with the "donut" rehaut beneath them. The design also incorporated an additional base layer that forms the main dial, creating a complex yet cohesive look.

The Pardon My Blue is one that’s heavily influenced by my love for De Bethune

This was a new challenge for me, as it was the first time attempting something like this. It felt risky, but I'm thrilled that the brand and I boldly pushed forward and brought this entirely new collection to life. The "Pardon My Blue" edition holds a special place, especially if you now can infer the story behind its inspiration.



Concluding Thoughts

Many watches and watchmakers place less emphasis on traditional "product design" and focus more on attempting to create in-house movements or re-issuing archival pieces. Their objectives overlooked several crucial elements, such as the need to innovate, challenge the status quo, and redefine what a watch can represent—pushing the limits of both craftsmanship and creativity.



Lately, in the world of micro brands and indie watchmaking, we’ve witnessed just how creative timepieces can become. Take, for example, IWC’s pioneering ceramic work or Gruppo Ardito’s bold designs. Even closer to home, our Squale Lab 1 or Ming’s striking pieces like the Ming 17.09 and Special Projects Cave showcase fresh takes on traditional watchmaking. What stands out is how many of these creations embrace a futuristic aesthetic that remains both unconventional and timelessly appealing.

While I could go on about my somewhat biased views on what makes for great design, I fully understand that not everyone will see things the same way. But isn’t that what makes this world so fascinating? Especially for enthusiasts like us, who obsess over every little detail in our beloved hobby. What I can’t stress enough, though, is the need for truly innovative designs from those with the know-how—people who are bold enough to bring fresh ideas to the table and push the boundaries for the future of watchmaking. We can't just keep living off re-issues with the same dial layouts, case elements, or even materials from decades ago. Imagine if we were still wearing the same Converse Chuck Taylors or Uniqlo Airism tees for life without any updates—watchmaking would lose its magic if it stagnated in the same way.



Whats exhilarating about today’s watch industry is the resurgence of independent spirit, allowing both brands and creators the freedom to explore more daring designs. We’re more open to embracing fresh ideas, but let’s be real—it takes a bit of stoicism and a lot of courage to go against the grain, especially with the market pressures we’ve faced in the past (though thankfully, less so now). But that shouldn't hold us back from creating something truly remarkable.

I hope you, the reader, can appreciate the design elements that matter to me, and where I'm coming from. It's this passion that keeps me and my team pushing forward, determined to craft something incredible. One thing is for sure—the world of watch design will keep evolving and surprising us, whether through bold new concepts or inventive ways for watchmakers to approach their craft. And that’s what makes it all worth it. I’ll end the article with a saying from the man Maximilian Büsser himself,
“ Watchmaking deserves to be more creative. It deserves to be an art form which is interpreted in all sorts of different ways.”