How Do Automatic Watches Work? Learn the Inner Mechanism!

Understanding how a watch works may help with your watch-collecting crusade. As a watch enthusiast, you may find the mechanisms of various watches interesting to uncover. This time, the discussion revolves around automatic watches. The main question is simple: how do automatic watches work?

Timekeeping is a delicate matter that watchmakers consider when crafting a timepiece. To ensure a watch operates correctly, the watchmaker pays attention to every component, from the mainspring to the crown. Before deciding on your watch purchase, check out how an automatic watch works in the following explanation.

What Is an Automatic Watch?

An automatic watch is also known as a self-winding watch. Instead of manual winding, the automatic watch uses the natural wrist motion to power the timepiece. Naturally, regular wear can accumulate sufficient power to power the watch, hence reducing the number of manual windings.

What happens when you don’t wear it often? To keep the watch operating without wearing it, take your time to wind the watch periodically to power the gears. To do this, you can turn the crown at 3 or 9 o’clock. The motion turns a smaller gear and winds up the mainspring.

Even though known as a self-winding watch, the automatic watch doesn’t automatically wind itself without being triggered. The inner mechanisms can only wind themselves as you move your wrist while wearing the watch. These movements rely on rotating weights or springs within. There are also automatic movements that use ball bearings to rotate on their own to trigger the movement of the gears inside. The motion relies on the kinetic energy from everyday use.

Parts of Automatic Watch Movement

An automatic watch movement consists of 160 microscopic components. Every part has a crucial role in maintaining precise timekeeping. The intricate mechanism ensures a watch stays functional and performs optimally. Here are key parts of automatic watch movement that you need to know:

• Mainspring: The power source of the movement that takes the shape of a spring-steel band. Winding the watch often can tighten the mainspring coils, allowing more energy to be stored and converted into electricity.
• Rotor: A weighted disc that swings back and forth. It’s the part that winds the mainspring.
• Crown: The external part that works to wind the mainspring manually. You can set the time by pulling it out and winding it manually.
• Gear train: A small series of internal gears that moves the hands after receiving the energy from the mainspring.
• Balance wheel: Weighted wheels that move like a pendulum. They operate by rotating back and forth.
• Escapement: A part that is made up of the escape wheel and the pallet fork. It works together with the balance wheel as the internal braking system. Escapement turns energy into vibrational impulses, which cause the hands to tick.
• Jewels: Synthetic rubies serve as a bearing for each inner part that moves. It ensures the mechanism operates smoothly without risking the system to overwork.

Read also: An Insightful Tips for Automatic Watch Maintenance 

How Do Automatic Watches Work?

As mentioned before, an automatic watch can self-wind by using the converted energy from the motion of the wrist. The wrist movement turns the rotor and winds the mainspring automatically. Daily wear can power this mechanism.

The mainspring moves the gears that keep the precise timekeeping. One winding can run the watch for hours before another is required to power the timepiece again. Several models of automatic watches come with a glass case back, allowing you to see the inner parts move in harmony.

The heavy rotors are usually made of platinum, gold, or tungsten. Due to these materials, they can power mechanical watches more optimally. The mechanism can benefit from the kinetic energy stored to wind the spring.

Wearing the automatic watch often is the key to keeping it functional. When not regularly worn, an automatic watch may stop ticking. If it happens, you should wind the crown manually so the gears can turn again and power up the watch.

The spring inside the automatic watch will lose its tension and stop working if you don’t wear it periodically. It’s worth noting that overwinding may hurt the delicate mechanism. However, you don’t have to worry about this when you wear an automatic watch.

The mainspring doesn’t get easily damaged by overwinding because of the slipping spring. If you overwind the crown, the slipping spring will set into its place, that is, around the barrel. When it happens, nothing will happen even if you turn the crown many times. 

Winding the crown regularly should ensure the automatic watch operates properly. However, if the watch keeps slipping up, there may be a fault in the mechanism. The malfunction may occur because of too much pressure on the gears or defects that cause friction between components on the inside. To make sure of it, you must take the watch to the professional. A regular service will help you prevent this from happening.

Why Choose Automatic Watches?

An automatic watch has the charm that most traditional mechanical timepieces may not have. As a time-telling device, an automatic watch focuses on precision. After all, it’s why people wear wristwatches anyway. To sum it up, here are the plus points of automatic watches:

• The self-winding mechanism allows the watch to tell time precisely.
• Convenient to wear without the hassle of manual winding or battery replacement.
• Durable and requires minimal maintenance even when worn regularly.
• Many automatic watchmakers have a long history, proving their excellent craftsmanship over generations.
• Collectible items sought by watch enthusiasts with increased value over time.

Read also: Quartz vs Automatic Watches: Which One to Choose? 

Can Automatic Watches Last Forever?

By now, watch enthusiasts probably understand where the self-winding name for automatic watches comes from. For the type of timepiece that works without manual winding, an automatic watch feels like a lifetime artifact. It can last for a long time as long as it’s worn regularly. The natural motion of the wrist can power up the mechanism inside the watch.

However, the watch's accuracy may decrease when it's not worn regularly. Before stopping completely, the watch may still be able to operate using the power reserve. Most automatic watches have a power reserve of around 36–48 hours. Knowing the power reserve can help with the maintenance.

How to Take Care of Automatic Watches

Caring for an automatic watch starts with regular cleaning. The practice isn’t only intended to ensure the watch’s shiny face, but also prevent dirt and sweat build-up, which may hurt the mechanism. Cleaning your automatic watch regularly also helps prevent corrosion and extend the watch’s lifespan. Habitually wiping the watch after wearing it may do the job.

It’s worth noting that an automatic watch requires more treatment than a quartz watch. While it can conserve power from the natural wrist motion, the watch may require manual winding occasionally. Other than this basic requirement, there are other automatic watch care tips you should pay attention to:

• Avoid exposing the watch to extreme temperature or sudden pressure.
• Store the watch in a breathable, soft cloth case when not worn.
• Keep the watch clean and dry. Use a soft cloth in warm, soapy water to clean it. Rinse with clean water and pat the surface with a dry cloth afterward.
• Take the watch off while you shower or bathe, even though it’s waterproof. The heat of the shower or bath water may cause the gaskets to expand and contract. This can affect the watch’s lifespan.
• Take the watch for professional maintenance every three to five years.

Read also: Watch Movement Types Explained: How Do They Work?

Recommended Automatic Watches at Gnomon

After knowing how automatic watches work, you may have grown interested in this type of timepiece. If you’d like to own one or more, you may consider Gnomon’s selected choices below:

1. Seiko Prospex 62MAS 200M Automatic

Dive watch enthusiasts may find the Seiko Prospex 62MAS 200M Automatic a worthy addition. This timepiece is well-regarded even within the Seiko community. To ensure its precision, the 62MAS is powered up by the 6R35 movement, an upgrade from the 6R15. It can maintain operation at 21,600 bph with hacking and handling capabilities. The movement has 24 jewels and a remarkable power reserve of 70 hours.

Price: $1,197.00 USD

2. Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic

As a reliable dive watch, the Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic is powered by the modern AL-560 with a base of SW330. It’s a premium Swiss automatic caliber designed to ensure timekeeping precision. With a customary adjustment, Alpina ensures the movement fits the watch. The result is the balance wheel with 28,800 vibrations per hour. When fully wound, the movement has up to 50 hours of power reserve.

Price: $2,695.00 USD

3. Rado Centrix Automatic Black

Sleek on the outside and reliable on the inside. Powered by the Swiss ETA C07.631, the Rado Centrix Automatic Black has a self-winding movement with a power reserve of 80 hours. It has 25 jewels and beats at 21,600 per hour. The movement is safely encased in the sapphire case back, equipped with a water resistance of 100 m to ensure its safety from accidental liquid seepage.

Price: $2,150.00 USD

4. Seiko Presage Automatic Ladies Craftsmanship Enamel White

A stunning automatic watch for a lady’s wrist comes in the excellent form of Seiko Presage Automatic Ladies Craftsmanship Enamel White. It may look like a simple dress watch, but it’s powered up by the robust 6R31 automatic caliber with 24 jewels and a power reserve of 70 hours. Beautifully designed as it is powerful, this dress watch defines the advanced craftsmanship of modern Seiko.

Price: $1,258.00 USD

5. Ball Watch Co. Engineer Master II Endurance 1917 40mm Ice Blue

Powered by the COSC Ball RR1103, the Ball Watch Co. Engineer Master II Endurance 1917 40mm Ice Blue boasts a 40-hour power reserve. The 25-jewel automatic movement beats at 28,800 per hour. What makes this movement special is its use of movement oil that allows the watch to endure extremely cold temperatures of -45°C/-49°F. To ensure protection, the watch features a screw-in case back with the Ball Watch’s signature engraved in the middle.

Price: $2,049.00 USD

Final Thoughts

Understanding how automatic watches work helps you figure out how to care for them. Even though the watch uses natural wrist motion to power the movement, manual winding is still required if you don’t wear it often. Additionally, regular cleaning and proper storing may extend the watch’s lifespan, allowing it to stay in good condition over time.

Read also: Everlasting Investment: Watch Care Tips for Your Timepieces